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  • Writer's pictureTate Rivers

Bol, Brač Island, Croatia

Updated: Nov 13, 2022

Bol was one of those places we'd never heard of, and then some local heard our accent as we translated the extensive menu with google. The conversation started casual, they asked how long we were here and what we were planning to do. They suggested a few things we should see while we were here: Dioklecijanova palača (Diocletian's Palace), the cliff walk to the swimming beach (where he was about to take his woman)—"are we visiting the islands?" His accent was thick, and we had to rely on the woman with him to translate. We were in Split for seven days, and then another seven on one of the islands.


"Bol, you have to go to Bol. It has the best beaches in Croatia, and olives, and wine." He instructed.


So, we had two tickets to Bol.


The ferry ride was gentle, even in the afternoon which was unusual for us. In Perth, the sea-breeze always came in by 1pm. An hour later, we were fighting with our cases up vertical the hills and winding paths of Croatia's most under-advertised island. Every house here was filled with smiling women who brined olives or fermented wine while their fat little husbands scooted down to the beach.


Bol is a hillside community, with houses perched on the hillside curving around the bay like a giant amphitheatre. Every window peeps over the roof of its neighbour for the sunset show.


We swam in the sea, the water deep, warm, and crystal clear thanks to the pebbled beaches. We could probably see for 20 meters or so along the sea floor. We booked to go scuba diving, and from the boat rocky deck of our small dive boat, it looked like I could reach out and touch the reef 10 meters below. We bought fresh produce from the local markets, and made fresh mediterranean food each night. Mediterranean pasta, with the "ugly" tomatoes and smooth aubergine.


We can't wait for cooking in Italy.


Tate x




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